Drive Guide to the Petersville Road and South Denali Safari
Introduction to Adventure
Hello, I'm Dennis Garrett. I came to Alaska many years ago to find adventure, opportunity and gold. I've put up this page, which started out as a "Drive guide for the Petersville Road and South Side Denali", to help guide you around the area if this is your first visit, or open up some "new" areas you may not be familiar with even if you are an 'old-timer'.
My family, 3 generations of Miners and I have been operating a gold mine here in the foothills of the Alaska Range since 1985. I'll try to cover the basics such as what to wear, what to bring, where to stay, and whatever else I can think of.
The picture at the
top of this page is Denali from the
Peters Creek ford, in the Petersville
Recreational Mining Area. More
pictures and maps on the Gallery and
Downloads pages.
| Flood
Advisory issued September 2 at
5:19AM AKDT WFO: NWS Anchorage AK Area: Western Susitna Valley; Central Susitna Valley; Northern Susitna Valley Description: * WHAT...Flooding caused by excessive rainfall continues. * WHERE...Northern Susitna Valley in the Petersville area * WHEN...Until 915 AM AKDT Thursday. * IMPACTS...Minor flooding in low-lying and poor drainage areas. Rises in small streams. Some low-water crossings may become impassable. River or stream flows are elevated. * ADDITIONAL DETAILS... - 1 to 2 inches of rainfall has fallen overnight and may exacerbate ongoing flooding issues along the headwaters of Peters Creek and Cache Creek. After a lull in rain on Tuesday, another round of rain set to occur on Wednesday is expected to bring another inch of rainfall. - Area creeks and streams are already running higher than normal after the rainfall from last week. While waters have been receding, additional rainfall may result in rises again this week. - Streams that may be affected include Peters Creek, Cache Creek, Willow Creek, Gopher Gulch, Garrett's Gulch, Lucky Gulch, Cottonwood Creek, Ruby Gulch, Nugget Creek, Moose Creek, Canton Creek, Dry Gulch, Kroto Creek, and other nearby streams and their tributaries. Larger rivers such as that Yentna and Susitna are NOT expected to rise into flood stage again. - http://www.weather.gov/safety/flood Instruction: Stay tuned to further developments by listening to your local radio, television, or NOAA Weather Radio for further information. Turn around, don't drown when encountering flooded roads. Most flood deaths occur in vehicles. Flooding is occurring or is imminent. It is important to know where you are relative to streams, rivers, or creeks which can become killers in heavy rains. Campers and hikers should avoid streams or creeks. |
If you are looking for the "Alaskan gold-mining town of Stevensville Alaska" in the long-defunct Yentna Mining District as seen on TV, I regret to inform you that it is fictitious. It is set in the abandoned camp of Petersville. We are now calling our Mining District "The Petersville Mining District", after Henry Peters. We Miners in the former Yentna Mining District had been without representation for over 30 years, from 1984-2004.
Instead, a few that desired not to mine the minerals, but instead "Mine the Tourists", by making a deal with Outside Tour Companies and petty, ignorant bureaucrats, and then their dream of the "South Denali Visitor's Center" was crushed by "An Odd Coalition..." It would have destroyrd the very wilderness they sought to bleed dry. They also dreamed of turning Petersville into a Tourist trap.
Interested in buying a lease or mining claim in the Petersville area (or anywhere else)? Read Fact Sheet: Investigating Claims Before You Buy first, from the Alaska DNR. Also of related interest to both prospective buyers as well as claim/mine owners and lessees is this informative report from the Nevada Bureau of Mines titled "Gold from Water (and Other Scams)"(Free download link).
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GETTING READY TO GO:
Petersville Road is the "other" road to Denali, the southern gateway to Denali, certainly the road less traveled. It's a rugged mining road, designed for true explorers of Alaska who want to discover the backcountry on their own terms.
This trip will take about 1-3 hours, and likely far longer, one-way, (if you are driving) covering about 34-45 miles one-way. I recommend that you have a 4-wheel drive sports utility vehicle or truck, at least after the abandoned mining camp of Petersville, but it is not mandatory. ATV's, aircraft, bicycles, animals such as goats, dogs, donkeys, Yak, camel, horse, and Alpacas, or by foot are other excellent alternatives. Note: Your "3 Hour Tour" may be like The S.S. Minnow, in that you can easily, be lost. Think Before You Go.
The road conditions are usually favorable for travel between June 1 and August 31, while May around Labor Day, and late Setemmber into October are "iffy." Due to the area's proximity to the Alaska Range, there is usually a great deal of snow on the road beyond Mile 14 the rest of the year. (That explains the area's popularity with snowmachiners, mushers, and winter campers on skis and snowshoes who flock to the area throughout the winter.) The road is unpaved except for the first 10+ miles, and the further along you travel the greater degree of 'adventure', as I like to call it, will you encounter.
NWS Area info: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-150.765&lat=62.495
You should also travel with necessary survival equipment, including a 1st aid kit, spare tire, tow rope, raingear, wading boots, mosquito repellent, waterproof matches or other firestarters, food, water, blankets and other gear. I'm working on a list from which you can pick and choose, or ignore the whole thing. A cell phone, CB radio, FRS/GMRS walkie talkie, or other communication device would also be handy, although most times there are sufficient vehicles passing along the road so that you would not be stuck for long. It's also a good idea to file a trip plan. Remember: this is an unpaved road deep in the wilderness. You could walk for a thousand miles west or north and not see another person.
IF YOU NEED SOME PLACE TO STAY:
Three
Bears – Trapper
Creek Convenience/ Liquor Store/ Gas
Station located at Mile 114.6
Parks Highway has lodging and RV
hookups. Further up the road, Mary's
McKinley View Lodge is also
available at Mile 134.5 Parks Highway.
Lodging on Petersville Road
includes Trapper Creek B & B
(Mi. .03), Denali
View Chalets (Mi. 2), North
Country B & B (Mi. 2.7), Gate
Creek Cabins (Mi. 10.5),
McKinley Foothills B & B/Cabins (Mi.
17.2). Most of these places have a
beautiful view of Mt. McKinley
(Denali). This is the most
recent information, subject to change.
You can also plan for a fine dinner and
some gold panning at our friends Ken and
Wynona Lee at the Cache Creek Cabins,
they also have excellent local
knowledge, from fishin' to bears!
If you prefer, you can camp in any of the numerous pullouts along the side of the road and nearly anywhere you want beyond Mile 19, where there is almost no private property, (with the exception of Cache Creek at the confluence of Nugget Creek) and of course on the claims. See the map for some scenic campsites. And be sure to check with the State Division of Forestry for information regarding campfires. It may also be permitted to camp and do some gold panning in Denali State Park or Denali National Park and Preserve, but you'll have to determine that for yourself. If you park your vehicle so that it blocks someones driveway or the road expect it to be gone when you return. The Alaska State Troopers will tow it away for you.
No motorized vehicles are permitted in Denali State Park or Denali National Park and Preserve on our side.
NOW LET'S GO . . . FOR THE GOLD!
To begin your road safari to gold country, travel the George Parks Highway to Milepost 114.9 where the community of Trapper Creek is located. If you don't have a full tank of gas, you can fill up in Trapper Creek. You can also visit Trapper Creek's Old Historic Post Office.
Turn onto the Petersville Road. The first 10+ miles of this road are paved. Miners built the Petersville Road in the 1920s. You will notice many farms in the area. The farms were established by the "59ers," people who came up to take advantage of a federal land grab from 1948 through the 60s and 70s.
Mi. 0.7 Petersville Road: Trapper Creek's Spruce Lane Farms Museum and Gifts. This is an authentic log cabin museum with a view of Mt. McKinley. Here you can get some background on the area's gold mining history and the homesteader movement. There are local gifts for sale and you can even pet the ponies before you continue your road safari.
Mile 6: Moose Creek. Here you can stop and have a picnic lunch and check to see if there are any trout or grayling in the creek. Also, enjoy good berry picking towards summer's end.
Mile 14: Kroto Creek -- a good place to park your vehicle and snowmachine trailer in the winter since this is where road maintenance ends in winter.
Various points between Mile 6 and Mile 19 offer views of the Alaska Range and tundra lakes -- some with swans, ducks, geese, moose, etc. See our image and map gallery.
Mile 19: Forks Roadhouse. The remains of an old bridge can be seen on Peters Creek behind the roadhouse. This takes you to the Black Creek Trail that goes around the southern side of the Peters Hills to Cache Creek and beyond. Do not attempt to drive very far without walking it out first.
The Forks Roadhouse, a relic of the gold rush era, burned to the ground in April 2012. The site was established as a supply depot for the gold fields of the Petersville Hills and Sustina Valley in the early 1900s. Take the right fork and continue on the Petersville Road.
At about Mile 26, you will pass through the long-abandoned mining camp of Petersville. The Petersville post office was located here from 1936 to 1939 (Ricks, 1965, p. 51). The historic buildings are closed and off-limits, but the rest of the lands are part of the general public lands. If you prefer you can just drive through and not stop, but no one has the legal right to prevent you from camping, crossing over, and otherwise recreating on the area as you wish, or attempting to charge you a "fee" of any type or kind. There are often squatters there, and more than once the Alaska State Troopers have visited that camp.
As you continue on, from Mile 28-30, you enter the spectacular Peters Creek canyon, a one-lane road that hugs one side of a deep gorge with waterfalls all around you. Views of the Alaska Range complete the picture.
One option before entering the canyon would be to turn right onto the trail at the mouth of the canyon. This rough trail can be muddy, so walk it out first. You'll go up to the top of the Peters Hills. This is where I have seen some of the most phenomenal views of the Alaska Range featuring Denali (Mt. McKinley), Mt. Foraker, and Mt. Hunter, and The Mooses Tooth. You can also see stunning views of the Chugach and Talkeetna Mountains, the Matanuska-Susita Valleys, and much more -- all set in a pristine alpine tundra.
The breeze is refreshing. Surrounding you are many deep, clear lakes that were created when the ancient glaciers that sculpted this magnificent landscape sliced the top of this mountain off. Watch for migratory birds and small mammals early in the summer, and Ptarmigan and bears feeding on the berries later in the year. This is a great area to begin a mountain biking trek, as there are many rugged trails and roads in this region, and it's a great place to set up camp.
Continuing on, you'll cross Peters Creek at the bridge at Mile 32 and enter the Petersville Recreational Mining Area, an area with over 2 miles of gold-bearing streams, set aside by the State of Alaska for the citizens to pan and mine for gold. If you don't know how, it's easy to learn and fun to do. This is also another outstanding area to camp.
Just past the bridge you come to another fork: the left fork takes you to the Cache Creek area; the right fork takes you to the Blue Ribbon Mine and Denali State Park. We'll go there first. If you do decide to head down the Cache Creek Road, we recommend that you visit our friends and Neighbors Ken and Wynona Lee at The Cache Creek Cabins, https://www.cachecreekcabins.com/ for great food, lodging, and gold panning. The road down Cache Creek is usually fair, but you will need to make a few easy creek crossings.
Take the right fork, you'll travel a little ways beyond the bridge, where you'll come to the Peters Creek ford. Bears and salmon can often be seen here. The idea of crossing the creek with your vehicle may, at first, appear daunting. However, the creek is generally quite shallow, except where strong currents have cut deep channels into the gravel bed of the creek. Stay away from these areas. Instead, cross only where the water is rough on the surface, and only when the water is relatively shallow, say 2 to 3 feet. Don't hesitate or stop in mid-stream, just keep your momentum and move forward. If unsure, walk it out first. Plan your crossing so you aren't facing the stream current.
After crossing the creek, you encounter yet another fork: the left takes you up Peters Creek, and the right takes you to Blue Ribbon Mine. You are also leaving the Petersville State Recreational Mining area and entering privately held state mining claims. By law, you may freely travel through, or hunt, fish, even camp on mining claims without the owner's permission. However, remember that the gold and other minerals are the property of the claim owner, and any unauthorized removal can result in criminal charges and civil liabilities. This is also true for disturbing claim markers, corners, or vandalizing equipment and camp facilities. Please respect private property, equipment, camps and other items.
As you continue on, the road becomes narrower, at times almost indistinct. The only evidence of a road or trail, which sometimes is swallowed up by the stream, is the occasional piece of surveyors' ribbon hanging from a branch. The seemingly impenetrable brush suddenly opens up, then as quickly, it surrounds you again. As you peer into the thick vegetation, ask yourself: Could there be a bear, moose, or other large beast-- or what other hidden treasure may be lurking in there unseen and unknown by me?
At Mile 34 or so, you may see a sign: Welcome to the Blue Ribbon Mine! To visit the mine, turn left here and drive for about 1.5 miles. Please feel free to take all the photos you want.
Surprised to see a mailbox way out here? It started out as a joke, and then people started leaving messages and gifts in the box, and sometimes we would leave mail in it so that anyone leaving the mine could take it to town. Speaking of 'Town,' we call our camp here "Vicinity, Alaska." It, like the mailbox, started out as a joke, as we would always hear on the radio, "The weather today for Anchorage and Vicinity is . . . ." Heh heh.
You can see for yourself why I like it here so much. Expansive vistas, lush valleys, rugged mountains, distant peaks beckoning the wanderer in all of us. Even the names carry you back to the turn of the century, when the West was truly Wild: Nugget, Gold, and Poorman Creeks. Or, Lucky, Puzzle and Ruby Gulches.
If you listen, you can hear the songs of the birds and the sounds of the creeks carried on the breeze.
Gold was discovered in this area in 1898, and the first known mining activities began in 1906. An estimated 200,000 ounces of gold , (12,000 lb; 5,700 kg) has been produced from the placer deposits of the district. (A.L. Clark, 1973). mostly by small-scale and hand mining. As you can see, the overall impact has been minimal, and most of the lands have been or are being reclaimed.
Fun Science Facts!
Volume of 200000 ounces of Gold
foot³10.36
oil barrel 1.85, Imperial gallon 64.56, US cup: 1 240.44, inch³17 908.84, US fluid ounce: 9 923.51: liter: 293.47, US gallon: 77.53, meter³0.29, US pint 620.22, metric cup 1 173.89, US quart 310.11, metric tablespoon: 19 564.89, US tablespoon 19 847.03, metric teaspoon 58 694.66, US teaspoon: 59 541.08
We exercise the utmost care and concern for the natural environment when harvesting the minerals we all need and use every day. You'll see how we have constructed wetlands and planted grasses and other plants to stabilize areas previously mined and abandoned long ago. We continue to research methods of reclamation and revegetation.
From "Vicinity," you can depart for Denali State Park, Denali National Park and Preserve, or just hang around and enjoy the scenery. To drive to the boundary of Denali State Park, go back down the hill to the sign, turn left. After about one-half mile you will see that the road becomes very steep. DO NOT ATTEMPT to drive this unless you have a 4-wheel drive vehicle in good condition and are familiar with its operation. Continue on, until you reach the crest of the hill. Then turn left and drive until you come to the "Denali State Park" sign. Motor vehicles are prohibited in Denali State Park and Denali National Park and Preserve.
A very nice trail takes off from here, and by following it for a mile or so, you can overlook the Tokositna Valley and Glacier, the Tokosha Mountains, and of course, Denali, the "Great One." (aka Mt. McKinley) In the 1920s, the world-renowned Alaskan artist Sydney Laurence painted from this vantage point. A documentary was partially filmed at the mine. Captain James Cook walked and camped here while searching for a trail into the Interior of Alaska. Behind, to your left, the bodies of three men were found on 13 September 1939. All three, and the wife of one of the men, were murdered for their gold. The killer is even today unknown. Check out "The Mystery of the Cache Creek Murders" by local author Roberta Sheldon for a very thorough and interesting read on this subject.
There is so much to see and do here, you might be asking, What's next? Well, we could go on over into Cache Creek, or to Bear Creek. But, let's save that for another day.
How about some tidbits of Geology? All the terrain you see today was created in the last 9,500 years or so. By rivers of ice, mostly. The Peters Hills, named after Henry Peters, one of the first prospectors in the area, as well as the Dutch Hills, are made of slate and other sedimentary rocks dating back to the late Jurassic and early Cretaceous Periods, about 170 to 220 million years ago. A Tertiary Age (about 65 million years old) conglomerate overlies these rocks where it hasn't been removed by erosion. Coal, bones, and some gold can be found in this formation. It is also the source of the red-brown stains you see near many streams in this area. All that remains of three great glacial epochs are the U-shaped valleys, the large areas of wetlands that are dotted with numerous small, clear lakes, and the hilly terrain characteristic of moraines. A brief report on the geology, mining history, and some more reading is listed on the home page.
Dutch Creek: stream, heads W of Dutch Hills, flows SW 10 mi. to Granite Creek, 37 mi. NW of Talkeetna, Alaska Ra.; 62°32’10” N, 150°10’10” W; (map 81).
Prospectors’ name reported in 1906 by R. W. Porter, USGS.
Dutch Hills: ridge, elev. 4,400 ft., extends NE 15 mi. from 1958 terminus of Kahiltna Glacier, 30 mi. NW of Talkeetna, Alaska Ra.; 62°35’30” N, 150°58’00” W; (map 81).
Prospectors’ name reported in 1911 by S.R. Capps (in Brooks, 1912, pl 9), USGS.
Gopher Gulch: ravine, in Dutch Hills, trends NE 0.5 mi. to Willow Creek, 29 mi. NW of Talkeetna, Alaska Ra.; 62°34’45” N, 150°50’45” W; (map 81)
Prospectors’ name reported in the 1930’s by USGS.
Ramsdyke Creek: heads in Dutch Hills, flows NE 5 mi. to Tokositna River.
Prospectors’ name reported in 1906 by R. W. Porter, USGS.
Tokositna River var. Tokichitna, Tokoshitna. Tanaina Indian name meaning “stream from treeless area”, reported to A. H. Brooks in 1902 by prospector George Aberhardt.
Peters Creek: stream, heads in Dutch Hills, flows S 45 mi. to Kahiltna River, 26 mi. SW of Talkeetna, Alaska Ra. ; 62" 10'40" N, 150"- 52'45" W; (map 81). Prospectors' name reported in 1906 by R. W. Porter, USGS.
Peters Hills: mountains, 3,800 ft., extend SW 18 mi. from Tokositna River, 24 mi. NW of Talkeetna, Alaska Ra.; 62"31'15" N, 150°48'30" W; (map 81). Local name reported in 1906 by R. W. Porter, USGS.
Petersville: locality, on Peters Creek, 24 mi. NW of Talkeetna, Alaska Ra.; 62”29'45" N, 150"- 46'00" W; (map 81). Mining camp reported in 1934 by USGS. The Petersville post office was located here from 1936 to 1939 (Ricks, 1965, p. 51).
Source: Dictionary of Alaska place names U.S.G.S. Professional Paper 567
By: Donald J. Orth
What else is there to do? Hiking, fishing, photography, mountain biking, cultural exploration, bird watching, and wildlife and mountain viewing. You will be moved, inspired, and exhilarated. Only by visiting here will you be able to feel and experience the powerful connection with nature. Mere superlatives cannot describe, any more than even the very best photos, the grandeur of the foothills of the Alaska Range.
In order to preserve the natural environment as well as the quality of the experience, we ask that you try to minimize the impact of your visit. After all, what's the sense in trampling and overcrowding the very wilderness you've come to enjoy? Wherever you may be, please respect the environment. Don't litter. Pick up any litter you do find and pack it out. Don't take anything out you didn't bring in. And don't leave anything behind.
As you begin your return journey to civilization, consider visiting the other historic gold mining areas of the Matanuska-Susitna Valleys, for example Independence Mine, located in Hatcher Pass.
Some General
Information
In order to help insure that your visit to the South Denali region is pleasant, here is a short list of tips:
Bugs, Berries, Bears, and Hiking: The best places to hike are the areas higher on the flanks of the Peters and Dutch Hills, which are free of the dense scrub growths of willow and alder. These are the areas with the least amount of bugs due to the steady breeze, and where lots of berries grow. In areas where there is a clear trail, please stay on the trail to minimize impact. Alpine areas are relatively fragile and slow growing. The large dug-up areas you see pockmarking the hillsides are the work of Grizzly bears digging up ground squirrels for food. To avoid conflicts with bears, make lots of noise when traveling through the thick brush, along streams, around berry bushes, and anywhere you see bear tracks or droppings. Take precautions with your food: don't store or discard food near your camp. Chances are, you will never even see a bear out here, but rest assured, they know you are there.
Topographic Maps: U.S.G.S. Talkeetna C-2 is the main map, those adjoining it will provide excellent coverage. For reference, use this code in Google Maps or search: H4HM+32 Petersville, AK, USA
Weather: The weather is subject to change rapidly due to our closeness to Denali. You could wake up to a clear, cloudless day, and temperatures could soar into the 80's, or the wind could shift, and the temperature can drop 30 degrees in a few minutes, followed by a cold, windy rain. If you expect to be more than a couple of hours away from your vehicle or camp, you would be well advised to take along a day pack with a light rain jacket or poncho, among other items.
Licenses and Permits- Check with various State and Federal agencies for information relating to fishing, hunting, and land use requirements. I don't want you to get in trouble while on your safari. It's your responsibility to secure and have on hand any permits etc that are required for your plan.
The local channel for CB radios is channel 19. Most cell phones work, but are better at the higher elevations.
Petersville Road Corridor Management Plan
Concerns Raised about the Tokositna Petersville Road and Denali Plan
While the Tokositna Petersville Road (A coalition of Citizens, including "The Pony-Tailed Gold Miner" as the ADN called me, stopped this idea-to the dismay of outside corporate tour companies like Princess, awww!), and its connection to Denali State Park, Denali National Park and Preserve offer unique opportunities for exploration and adventure, there have been some concerns raised about the road and the park plan. Here are a few of the concerns:
- Road
Conditions and Safety:
The Tokositna Petersville Road is
a rugged mining road that can be
challenging to navigate,
especially beyond mile 14 where there is
often a significant amount of
snow. The road is unpaved and can be
rough, requiring four-wheel drive
in some cases. Travelers are advised to
be prepared with necessary
survival equipment and to check road
conditions before embarking on the
journey . You will be challenged for
cell, live streaming, etc. Yet the very
stupid plan was to bus in 200,000
tourists per year, on the Petersville
Road! Locals would have been excluded,
as is the case on the north side.
- Access Restrictions: Motor vehicles are prohibited in Denali State Park and Denali National Park and Preserve. While the Tokositna Petersville Road provides access to a trail that offers scenic views of the Tokositna Valley, Glacier, Tokosha Mountains, and Denali, visitors should be aware of the restrictions on motorized vehicles within the park .
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Cautionary Legal Safe Harbor/Anti Ambulance-Chaser Repellent: While every effort is made to provide accurate, up-to-date information, data and maps, the GPS data, maps, and written documentation provided herein is for information, education, and illustrative mapping purposes only and no implied, expressed, or written certainty, warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy and/or legitimacy is made by Blue Ribbon Mine LLC or any other entities. The materials provided are subject to change, and it is not our responsibility to notify you of any changes. Blue Ribbon Mine LLC and any other entities are to be held completely harmless and at no fault for any and all liabilities and issues arising from its use or misuse, whether intended or not, by recreational or other users that knowingly or unknowingly use this GPS and other information at their own discretion and sole risk. Bring your legal team, and experience true risk for once.
Think Before You Go.